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StrengthPeriodization

8-week intermediate climbing training block

v1

A structured two-phase climbing program focusing on maximal strength followed by power-endurance conversion for intermediate climbers.

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climbingstrengthpower-enduranceperiodizationdeload

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Procedure

  1. Phase 1: Maximal Strength & Power (Weeks 1-4)

    • Week 1 (Baseline): Initialize a 4-day training week. Schedule Max Hangs (7-10s on 20mm edge) to establish weight baselines and weighted pull-ups. Include one Limit Bouldering session (1-3 moves at 100% effort).
    • Week 2-3 (Progression): Use update_training_max to increase weight by 1.25kg to 2.5kg for Max Hangs. Increase intensity to near-maximal RPE (9-10) by Week 3.
    • Week 4 (Deload): Create a recovery week. Reduce total training volume and session duration by 50%. Replace Limit Bouldering with low-intensity climbing at 60-70% effort.

  2. Phase 2: Power-Endurance & Conversion (Weeks 5-8)

    • Week 5 (Transition): Shift focus to Repeaters (7s on / 3s off, 6 reps per set) and 4x4 interval bouldering. Maintain high intensity with moderate volume.
    • Week 6-7 (Peak Volume): Increase volume by adding one set per exercise. In Week 7, reduce rest intervals by 15-30 seconds to maximize metabolic stress.
    • Week 8 (Deload/Taper): Implement a final deload. Reduce load and volume by 50%. Focus on mobility, technique, and recovery for performance.

  3. Standard Weekly Session Template

    • Day 1 (Strength/Power): Warm-up, Max Hangs (5 sets), Weighted Pull-ups (3x5), Limit Bouldering (45 mins).
    • Day 2 (Volume/Technical): 90 minutes of sub-maximal climbing focusing on footwork and movement efficiency.
    • Day 4 (Power-Endurance): Warm-up, Repeaters (Phase 2) or 4x4s, Core stability, Antagonist training (push-ups/dips).
    • Day 6 (Application): Outdoor projecting or specific goal-oriented climbing.

  4. Safety & Progressive Overload Monitoring

    • Monitor RPE: If a 20mm edge feels below RPE 7, add weight in 2.5kg increments rather than decreasing edge size to protect A2 pulleys.
    • Active Recovery: Ensure deload weeks (4 & 8) maintain 3 sessions but strictly enforce the 50% volume reduction.

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